Go ahead and desolder it to expose the red and blue wires from the motor. Now, be brave and peel the heat-shrink off the motor wires. It is the wire you commonly find in Ethernet cables.)įirst thing is to cut the rod to a length between 140 and 150 mm and to shave a flat spot on both ends to be able to insert the new boom both into the frame and into the tail case. some CAT 5 wires (optional, I use them because it's a relatively thick copper wire which prevents any voltage drop. a length of 2 mm carbon fibre rod (I used fiberglass because I couldn't find any carbon around) I preferred the third option as I found it the easiest.and the cheapest. you can swap the stock motor for a bigger one, such as the tail coming from the Blade 120SR you can add a second motor on the tail to double its effectiveness, like shown here There are a few solutions to this problem: TBO is a major cause for crashes when the pilot steps up from hovering and wants to try to flip or roll the helicopter: sudden pitch variations will cause the tail not to hold anymore, the heli will spin, the pilot loses control, and down she goes. This is mainly caused, in the case of the mCPX, by the motor not responding quick enough to the inputs of the gyro. Tail blow out, or TBO, happens when the thrust coming from the tail rotor is not enough to counteract the torque coming from the main rotor during fast pitch changes, resulting in an unintentional pirouette. A very common problem with the Blade mCPX and with all the helicopters with a separate motor driven tail is the tail blowing out.
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